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SYDNEY RESTAURANTS              

Sydneysiders are justifiably proud of their dining scene.  Australia's largest city has been populated by successive waves of migrants, all of whom have added something of their home countries to the communal table.  These influences have spilled over into contemporary cuisine, which is often called  "Modern Australian".  This term covers just about any ethnic style the chef may fancy, loosely based on French cuisine.  The result is that, in terms of ethnic diversity, Sydney is able to offer many dining options.  From a survey of different types of restaurant in varying price brackets, we have selected those offering good value for money. 

WHERE TO EAT
Circular Quay, The Rocks, Darlinghurst, Potts Point and Paddington are the areas where you will find the widest choice of places to eat.  Just outside the city centre, and not covered in depth in these listings, are the inner-city  "eat streets"  of Glebe Point Road, Glebe, and King Street, Newtown.

All of the major hotels have at least one restaurant and a few of these, such as the Galileo Restaurant at the Observatory Hotel, offer beautiful surroundings, too.

To enjoy a spectacular view while you dine, start with drinks at the Horizon Blu bar at the Shangri-La Hotel, followed by any of the restaurants at the Opera Quays or at one of Sydney's best restaurants, Quay, at the Overseas Passenger Terminal.

Many restaurants at Darling Harbour, Cockle Bay and King Street Wharf have outside tables, so diners can enjoy the atmosphere of the lights, the water and the boats.

HOW MUCH TO PAY
Compared with other major world capitals, dining out in Sydney is relatively inexpensive.  The cost of a three-course meal in an average restaurant is probably 25 per cent lower than its equivalent in, say, New York or London.  The cost is further reduced if you choose a BYO restaurant where you can avoid paying the marked-up price of restaurant wine by taking your own alcohol.  However, there will usually be a  "corkage"  cost per drinker.

OPENING TIMES
Most Restaurants serve lunch from noon to 3pm and dinner from 6pm to about 11pm, through last orders are often at 10:30pm.  Cheap and cheerful ethnic kitchens may close earlier, around 9:30pm, but this largely depends on demand.  Many restaurants close on some, if not all, public holidays.  This is particularly true of Christmas Day, Boxing Day and Good Friday.

RESERVATIONS
Booking is recommended in most places - earlier in the day is usually adequate.  If you want to be sure of a table for Friday or Saturday in a spot that is currently fashionable, however, you may need to make a reservation up to one month in advance.  If a restaurant says it's full, it is worth asking about an early table, around 6pm, or whenever the place opens.  Many casually brasseries and bistros are open all through the day and, as they aren't the sort of place where people linger over their meal, they do not take bookings.  You may have to wait a few minutes for a table if you arrive at a busy time.

DRESS CODES AND SMOKING
Dress standards in Sydney restaurants are really quite relaxed, even in the more up-market establishments.  Most restaurants will draw the line, however, at patrons in beachwear and flip flops.

Neat and tidy is the general rule.  Smart casual dress is the safest option when considering what to wear.  Jackets and ties are a rare sight unless the wearer has come straight from the office or is conducting a business meeting over a meal.

In line with recent trends with regard to smoking, many restaurants in Sydney now have a no smoking policy, although some restaurants still allow smoking in designated areas.

EATING WITH CHILDREN
Most restaurants accept children who can sit still throughout a meal, although you may feel more comfortable in either Chinese restaurants or the cheap pasta eateries in East Sydney, where children are always welcome.  Harry's Cafe de Wheels is a roadside pie shop next to the Finger Wharf that is a cheap and cheerful lunch option.  Eat outdoors beside the harbour where kids can make as much noise as they want.

The Harbourside food court in Darling Harbour is another inexpensive option.  Here, there is a variety of eating places in one complex, including Mexican and Chinese food outlets, pasta and salad bars, all with a central seating area for convenience.

For families who prefer to dine out rather than snack, chains such as Pizza Hut and the Black Stump steakhouses offer special menus for children but they also serve alcohol for the adults.

Perhaps the best locations to dine out with children are those where they can play safely outside after they have eaten.  The Bathers Pavilion is right on Balmoral Beach, a sheltered harbour beach which has a netted swimming pool.  Centennial park Cafe is also a great place for families being within supervisory range of grassy lawns and a children's playground.

THE FLAVOURS OF SYDNEY
The city of Sydney surrounds its famous harbour, and countless bars, restaurants and cafes have views of sparkling sunlit water.  Taking advantage of the mild climate, outdoor eating - from morning coffee to dinner - is the norm.  The cutting-edge food scene is often categorized with New York, London and Paris, and Sydney's top-class chefs are admired the world over.  Sydney is cosmopolitan, multicultural and vibrant, with the laid-back atmosphere of the beach always nearby.  Sydneysiders are passionate about socializing and, whether eating out or cooking at home, food is always central to a good time.

NATIVE INGREDIENTS
There are many native foods in Australia that have been used by aborigines for thousands of years, and which are now becoming widely popular.  Fruits and vegetables with distinctive colours, flavours and textures include quandong, munthari, bush tomato, wild limes, warrigal greens and rosellas.  All of them are still primarily wild-harvested by aboriginal communities.  Although native Australians never used seasonings in their campfire cooking, modern Australians have discovered the exciting flavours of such indigenous herbs and spices as lemon myrtle, wattleseed, mountain pepperleaf, pepperberry, forest berry and akudjura.  Native meats such as kangaroo and emu are also being used more frequently, although don't expect to see witchery grubs on many menus.  These native meats sit alongside a vast and impressive array of beef, lamb and of course, seafood.  Fish native to Australia include barramundi, trevalla and blue eye cod.  The popular native shellfish, yabbies and moreton bay bugs, are similar to, but smaller than, lobster.  Also worth a mention are the lovely fragrant honeys that are produced out of native Australian forests.

THE WORLD ON A PLATE
Having one of the most electric populations on earth means great things for food  (or "tucker").  Australians are happy with olive oil in one hand and fresh chilies in the other, so no rules apply - you can be sure of great flavours using the best produce.

Farming plays a very important role in Australia, the world's largest producer of beef.  The lush pastures on the coast are particularly good for farming, and milk-fed lamb from New South Wales is as wonderful as the brie produced in South Australia.  King Island, off the coast of Victoria, is dedicated to dairy produce, selling their amazing cheeses and creams all around the country.  Alongside the rapidly growing wine industry is olive oil and balsamic vinegar production, examples of which you are likely to find at the cellar door of many vineyards.

Australia has one of the most diverse marine faunas in the world, due to its range of habitats, from the warm tropical northern waters to the sub-Antarctic Tasman sea, as well as its geographical isolation.  A total of 600 marine and freshwater species are caught in Australian waters, providing chefs with plenty of inspiration.

Every kind of fruit and vegetable is grown in Australia.  Pineapples and mangoes are widely grown in Queensland, apples in Victoria, strawberries in New South Wales and rambutans in the Northern Territory.  Exotic and notoriously hard to farm, truffles have recently been cultivated in Tasmania, highlighting just how versatile Australia's land is.

LOCAL DISHES AND SPECIALTIES
There's nowhere better in the world to enjoy fish and chips than sitting on a Sydney beach.  As well as the standard choice of hake fillets, you may find more unusual fish on offer, such as wild barramundi or John Dory.

Alongside traditional Asian restaurants serving yum cha, dim sum curries and noodles, there is plenty of modern cuisine, fusing Asian flavours with local produce, such as a Thai-style salad of kangaroo with peanuts and lime.  And you can rest assured that just about every other cuisine in the world will be represented in Sydney in some way. 

Sandwiches and burgers are often made with Sydney's favourite  "Turkish"  bread - light and fluffy, and great toasted with Vegemite or for dipping in olive oil.

KANGAROO PIZZA
This Italian classic is given a modern Australian spin with the addition of seared lean fillet.

GRILLED BARRAMUNDI
Served on ginger and bok choy risotto, this is a great mix of local seafood and Asian flavours.

PRAWN LAKSA
This spicy coconut noodle soup can be found all over the country in noodle bars, cafes and pubs.

LAMINGTONS
These little Victoria sponge cakes are coated in chocolate icing and shredded coconut.

FOOD ON THE RUN

SUSHI 
Major cities are dotted with tiny counters offering fresh sushi to grab on the go.

JUICE BARS 
This booming industry is found on most city streets, serving delicious, cool blends of fruit.

MILK BARS
As well as milk-shakes, ice creams and salads, these sell a wide range of deep-fried foods.

COFFEE AND CAKE
Little cafes everywhere also sell Italian-style cakes and pastries.

PUBS
Most pubs serve a decent steak sandwich.

PIES
An Aussie institution, pies are readily available.  Look out for gourmet versions.

WHAT TO DRINK IN SYDNEY
Australia has one of the world's finest cuisines and part of its enjoyment is the marriage of the country's wine with great food.  Australians have a very relaxed attitude to food and wine mixes, so red wine with fish and a cold, dry Riesling as an aperitif can easily be the order of the day.  Also, many of the restaurants in the wine regions offer exclusive brands, or offer rare wines so these are worth seeking out.  Australians also enjoy some of the best good-value wine in the world.  It is estimated that there are 10,000 different Australian wines on the market at any one time.  Australians do love their beer, and it remains a popular drink, with a wide range of choices available.  While the health-conscious can choose from a variety of bottled waters and select-your-own freshly-squeezed fruit juices.  Imported wines, beers and spirits are also readily available.

SPARKLING WINE
Australia is justly famous for its sparkling wines, from Yalumba's Angas Brut to Seppelts Salinger.  Most recently, Tasmania has showed considerable promise in producing some high quality sparkling wines, particularly Pirie from Pipers Brook.  However, the real hidden gems are the sparkling red wines - the best are made using the French Methode Champenois, matured over a number of years and helped by a small drop of vintage port.  The best producers of red sparkling wines are Rockford and Seppelts.  These sparkling wines are available throughout Sydney from  "bottle shops", which sell alcohol.

WHITE WINE
The revolution in wine making in the 1970's firmly established dry wines made form international grape varieties on the Australian table.  Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and, more recently, Viognier and Pinot Gris are all popular.  However, in recent years there has also been a renaissance and growing appreciation for Riesling, Marsanne and Semillon, which age very gracefully.  Australia's other great wines are their fortified and dessert wines.  Australian winemakers use botrytis cinera, or noble rot, to make luscious dessert wines such as Muscats and Tokays.

RED WINE
Australia's benchmark red is Grange Hermitage, the creation of the late vintner Max Schubert in the 1950's and 1960's.  Due to his work,Shiraz has established itself as Australia's premium red variety.  However, there is also plenty of diversity with the acknowledged quality of Cabernet Sauvignon produced in the Coonawarra.  Recently, there has also been a re-appraisal of traditional  "old vine"  Grenache and Mourvedre varieties in the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale.

BEER
Most Australian beer is vat fermented, or lager, and consumed chilled.  Full-strength beer has an alcohol content of about 4.8 per cent, mid-strength beers have around 3.5 per cent while  "light"  beers have less than 3 per cent.  Traditionally heat sterilized, cold filtration is now popular.  Fans of real ale should seek out one of the city's pub breweries.  Beer is ordered by glass size and brand:  a schooner is a 426 ml  (15 fl oz)  glass and a middy is 284 ml  (10 fl oz).

FRUIT JUICES
With the fabulous fresh fruit at their disposal year round, cafes concoct an astonishing array of fruit-based non-alcoholic drinks.  They include frappes of fruit pulp and juice blended with crushed ice;  smoothies of fruit blended with milk or yogurt;  and pure juices, extracted from everything from carrots to watermelons.

COFFEE
Sydney's passion for coffee means that short black, macchiato, cafe latte, cappuccino and flat whit  (with milk)  are now available at every neighbourhood cafe.

OTHER DRINKS
Tap water in Sydney is fresh and clean, but local and imported bottled water is fashionable.  The cola generation has graduated to alcoholic soft drinks and soda drinks.  One brand, Two Dogs alcoholic lemonade, was born when a glut of lemons flooded the fruit market.

CHOOSING A RESTAURANT
The restaurants in this section have been selected for their exceptional food and good value.  Within each area, entries are listed alphabetically within each price category, from the least to the most expensive.

THE ROCKS AND CIRCULAR QUAY

LATTE BROTHERS ON THE ROCKS CAFE, Shop R2, Nurses Walk.
Tucked away in a little cobble-stoned courtyard, in the earliest-settled part of Sydney, this sweet diner is a great place for a quick lunch or afternoon pit stop.  Pierce Brosnan and Princess Anne were both spotted here when in town, though it is unknown whether they were dining on sandwiches or Devonshire tea.  Big all-day breakfasts too.
Tel:  92 - 52 - 20 - 55
Price Range:  Under $35

THE AUSTRALIAN HOTEL, 100 Cumberland Street.
This pub specialises in topping pizzas with surprising combinations, including kangaroo, emu and crocodile meat.  They also offer an all-day breakfast pizza, salads and pies.  During lunch it is packed with office workers jostling for a table so it is best to take an early or late lunch or for an evening meal.
Tel:  92 - 47 - 22 - 29
Price Range:  $35 - $60

AMO ROMA RISTORANTE, 135 George Street.
This bustling, modern restaurant occupies three floors of a converted bank that was built in 1886.  It is a great choice for kids or fussy eaters, with a wide range of classic dishes, including veal escalope, chicken fettuccine, gnocchi, pizzas and salads.  Open from noon til late, it does a brisk lunch trade.  Ideal for large groups.
Tel:  92 - 47 - 19 - 20
Price Range:  $60 - $85

EAST CHINESE, Shop 8, 1 Macquarie Street.
There is no secret Chinese menu at this busy restaurant, just a range of dishes from the familiar to the adventurous.  Native Australian meats, including kangaroo, emu and crocodile, are on the menu, as well as a bevy of seafood treats, fresh from the tank.  It's the best Chinese restaurant for people-watching.
Tel:  92 - 52 - 68 - 68
Price Range:  $60 - $85

HERITAGE BELGIAN BEER CAFE, 135 Harrington Street.
There are other options listed on the menu bit for anyone in the know, mussels provide the only authentic Belgian experience, cooked one of eight ways and served in a pot.  Other entrees include duck salads, oysters and a selection of Belgian Ardennes charcuterie.  Of course, there are Belgian beers on tap and an  amazing range of artisan brews.
Tel:  92 - 41 - 17 - 75
Price Range:  $60 - $85

MCA CAFE, Museum of Contemporary Art, 140 George Street.
The menu is full of Sydney favourites such as pan-fried kingfish, risotto and twice-baked cheese souffle, and its fabulous location on the Circular Quay side of the MCA building, makes this restaurant a good choice.  After satisfying your sweet teeth with creme brulee, diners head upstairs to the galleries to absorb the art.
Tel:  92 - 41 - 42 - 53
Price Range:  $60 - $85

OPERA BAR, Lower Concourse Level, Sydney Opera House.
This is a great place for a refreshing pit stop on the way to or from the Opera House and an excellent destination in its own right.  Bar food is available from noon until 11pm, with good-value tasting plates.  There are also pre-theatre, lunch and dinner menus.  Nightly entertainment sees DJ's and jazz, soul and funk bands.
Tel:  92 - 47 - 16 - 66
Price Range:  $60 - $85

SAILOR'S THAI, 106 George Street.
Located at the historic Sailor's Home, chef and Thai food expert David Thompson continues to oversee the menu at this restaurant.  Highly recommended are the crispy fish and green papaya salad, and braised beef ribs spiked with chili.  The cheaper Canteen, upstairs, is open for lunch and dinner too.
Tel:  92 - 51 - 24 - 66
Price Range:  $60 - $85

AQUA LUNA, 5-7 Maquarie Street.
The menu at this sophisticated place changes daily, making the best use of the freshest produce.  The hearty fare might include grain-fed eye fillet of beef with lentils and baby fennel.  There is a 20-minute wait for risotto cooked to order and it is definitely worth it.  The glowing-blue bar, downstairs, serves great cocktails and pizzas.
Tel:  92 - 50 - 03 - 11
Price Range:  $85 - $110

CAFE SYDNEY, Level 5, Customs House, 31 Alfred Street.
This buzzing restaurant, on the to floor of historic Customs House, has sweeping views.  The terrace is delightful;  in winter, gas heaters keep diners warm and special resin lamps make each table glow.  The kitchen's tandoori oven, wood-fired grill, wok and rotisserie turn out a great variety of food.  There is live jazz on Sunday afternoons.
Tel:  92 - 51 - 86 - 83
Price Range:  $85 - $110

THE WHARF RESTAURANT, Sydney Theatre Company, Hickson Road.
A wonderful setting in a restored wharf offering an unusual view of the Harbour Bridge.  Directly opposite, Luna Park provides a glittering backdrop of night-lights.  In the winter, special dishes such as truffle-infused Brie are added to the menu.  Plan to dine after 8pm to avoid the theatre crowd.  Disabled access should be arranged in advance.
Tel:  92 - 50 - 17 - 61
Price Range:  $85 - $110

ALTITUDE, Level 36, Shangri-La Hotel Sydney, 176 Cumberland Street.
One of the few places in Sydney that requires guests to look smart, anything less would clash with the super-slick decor.  Those who arrive early might sip on one of  a great range of aperitif cocktails in the Blu Horizon bar before supper.  Altitude serves modern Australian cuisine inspired by European influences.
Tel:  92 - 50 - 61 - 23
Price Range:  Over $110

ARIA, 1 Macquarie Street.
There are many options here, from a seven-course degustation to a set price one, two or three-course lunch, pre-theatre meal or supper.  Fish and seafood star in many dishes, such as the pumpkin ravioli and baked scampi with lemon butter and muscatels, and the ocean trout and salmon terrine with a dill dressing and grilled sourdough.
Tel:  92 - 52 - 25 - 55
Price Range:  Over $110

GUILLAUME AT BENNELONG, Sydney Opera House.
You cannot beat the excitement of dining in the Opera House, especially in such a romantic, elegant space.  An emphasis on seafood produces dishes such as the signature basil-infused tuna with mustard seed and soy vinaigrette.  A cheaper way to taste chef Guillaume Brahimi's food is by ordering tapas-style served from the cocktail bar.
Tel:  92 - 41 - 19 - 99
Price Range:  Over $110

HARBOUR KITCHEN AND BAR, Park Hyatt Sydney, 7 Hickson Road.
Especially lovely by day, when the bustle of Circular Quay can be fully appreciated and ferries pass close by the wall of windows.  Good-value lunch and pre-theatre deals allow chef Danny Drinkwater's signature duck and beetroot tart to be tasted for less.  Modern high tea is served in the more casual kitchen, which is a better choice for children.
Tel:  92 - 56 - 16 - 61
Price Range:  Over $110

QUAY, Upper Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal.
Another spectacular view, and food to match, with star chef Peter Gilmore making magic out of the best and freshest produce and combining ingredients in surprising ways.  Try the crisp pressed cinnamon spiced duck, white turnips, sea scallops, spring onion and chive flowers.  The famous five-textured chocolate cake is to die for.
Tel:  92 - 51 - 56 - 00
Price Range:  Over $110

ROCKPOOL, 107 George Street.
Neil Perry opened his Sydney fine-dining institution in 1989 and invented modern Australian cuisine with his fusion of European and Asian flavours.  The blue-swimmer crab omelette is mouth-watering.  Recent renovations spruced the place up and added a seafood bar.  For complete indulgence, book the tasting menu.  Bookings recommended.
Tel:  92 - 52 - 18 - 88
Price Range:  Over $110

WILDFIRE, Ground Level, Overseas Passenger Terminal.
This glamorous restaurant has views of the Opera House when there is no cruise ship in port.  Great for a big night out or a snack after a show.  Enjoy a range of offering from the wood-fired Brazilian churrasco grill or pull up a seat at the Sea Bar.  Mixologists create some of Sydney's best cocktails at the intimate bar, Ember.
Tel:  82 - 73 - 12 - 22
Price Range:  Over $110

YOSHII, 115 Harrington Street.
Ryuichi Yoshii is one of Sydney's top sushi chefs and the author of a sushi cookbook.  His restaurant serves dinner in the kaiseki style, a series of unique small dishes that gradually warm the stomach like a small stone  (a Japanese precursor to the hot water bottle).  Though pricey, this is excellent value.  Lunchtime bento boxes are cheaper.
Tel:  92 - 47 - 25 - 66
Price Range:  Over $110

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